I figured without being here its hard to appreciate all the strange and wonderful things that make this country what it is. So here is a quick list of things I have found quirky, funny or interesting:
Holding Hands: I think Sean may have mentioned this one earlier - it is still worth mentioning again though. When we first arrived here I thought the country had just done away with heterosexuality - if ever there are two guys in the street walking together they will be doing so either holding hands or with their hands low around each others waists. The shock came seeing the police officers doing it - while pulling cars over. Now we are a little more accustomed to it - the hospital staff hold our hands in between wards on a regular basis!
Road Rules: Right hand side and left hand side seem to fuse here - unless you are 5 metres away from an oncoming vehicle - then that make a momentary allowance and move back to their side of the road. The main roads are policed quite vigorously, regularly pulling cars over to check lights, mirrors, number of passengers, tyres or to give you a ticket for speeding. And yet there are no speed limit signs or radars for that matter, so I guess the Police Officer's opinion is gospel. This strict policing of the roads was recently introduced because of the high rate of MVAs. It is still high (although reduced so we are told) and it is not uncommon to see an overturned truck on the side of the road...Exhibit A:
The Countryside: This one falls under the interesting category, and it's one I have written about before. There is not one bit of land left uncultivated here - the sign of a poor country with rich soil. It does however make for a fantastically beautiful landscape. It's like a patchwork quilt rolling off into the distance.
Mobile Phones: Absolute status symbol here - many have them and those that do are considered 'wealthy' by Rwandan standards. There is no landline system (except in the capital) so short of shouting, the only long-distance voice communication here is done via mobile phones. Sim Card's are AU $2.00 and phone credit is a similar price.
Taxis: Come in four forms. Type 1 - bicycle, quite popular around small towns, involves an old push-bike with a steel pannier rack on the back and a pillow if you are lucky. Type 2 - Motorbike, in Rwanda they give you a helmet, in Uganda they don't. I have experienced both, sorry mum, both are as scary as each other. Type 3 - Toyota Hiace, I think Sean mentioned this one. A spaceous vehicule with 10 or so seats and at least 20 Rwandans. Type 4 - a guy who owns a car (only found in Kigali) who offers you a lift somewhere as you pass him by in the street. Not a bad option but can be expensive being a muzungo.
Prices: White people will inevitably be offered an initial price thrice what an African would be offered - much haggling is required. The trick I have found is being able to count in Kinyarwanda. The reasons are twofold; firstly if you start telling them the price you will pay in their own language all of a sudden they realise you aren't a tourist and you probably know the going street price. Secondly, you can listen to the previous buyer or discussions between the sellers and discern the real price. This came in handy one day at the markets when an elderly woman gave me the price of igihumbi (1000) for a basket, her son then came forward thinking I was a French tourist and translated the price as mille cinq cent (1500). I told him that I would take his mother's price. The markets:
Age: As has been mentioned, Rwanda is a very young country. Although one thing Sean and I have found very difficult is guessing someone's age - and apparently the Rwandans have the same problem with us. Most kids look much younger than they are (probably a result of malnourishment in many cases) and adults look much older than they are (no idea why). As for us, they can't believe I am twenty and are perplexed when I say I have no children.
Greetings: It is considered very rude not to shake someone's hand if you know them - this occurs ever time you see them, even if it means ten handshakes a day because thats how many times you pass by them at the hospital. It is also rude if you don't shake the hands of everyone this person is currently walking with/talking to even if you don't know them. Also if you feel the person is older or more senior to you then you are supposed to shake with your right hand while simultaneously holding/supporting your right forearm with your left hand. Usually during the handshake this sign of respect is only performed by one person (the less senior). Trouble is that being white (and often confused as being a doctor) everyone assumes that you are somehow owed respect - so when we shake the hand of an elderly patient we never get to show them the respect they deserve because they are already giving you this undue respect. And that is handshake etiquette Rwandan style.
Genocide: This one obviously falls under the interesting category. It is a rare day here when you don't hear mention of this atrocity. Usually in the news (just yestereday a Rwandan singer was sentenced to 15 years imprisonment for some of his genocide songs/propaganda that were published in 1994), or often from someone talking about it and where they were during it all or sometimes on a sign on the side of the road. What you will almost never hear uttered by Rwandans are the names of the two groups involved (Tutsi and Hutu) or any suggestion of national segregation. Mentioning either of those names is not only culturally unacceptable it now also punishable by imprisonment.
Dancing: They have their own dance - it's called inhore (pronounced innoray) and it is amazing to watch for both the style, the music and the outfits. It involves a lot of coordinated feet stomping (its very graceful I assure you), with bells around their ankles.
