Thursday, October 30, 2008

First words

Hi all!
We have arrived safely in Rwanda, the town of Butansinda. It is a small hamlet really, a round sloping field surrounded by mudbrick square buildings not much larger than a single garage, about 200 m off the main road.

People walk everywhere, wandering about in the afternoon sun passing the days news and talking in small groups. This is a heavily populated country - 8 million people in an area the size of Southeast Queensland living on subsistence farming. Every square inch of land is utilised, be it for cultivation, for goats to forage, or for stands of eucalyptus under which locals collect the daily firewood.

We are staying in a school house belonging to an expat Australian who is the Director of ETO Gitarama - Rwanda 5 star with both a toilet AND electricity. Our meals are prepared for us by Japhet, who is hired to do the cooking and the washing. He has a priviliged life by Rwandan standards - and is a very kind and helpful person.

We are considered extremely rich here as the average wage is around $60 a month. For many, hunger is a daily preoccupation and meat is a luxury. The school soccer final was played yesterday, with the Electronics house winning a goat to eat for dinner - the only meat they have had for some time. With such a lot riding on the game it isn't surprising the competition was fierce, and the spectators on the cliff edge bopping along to the music provided by a loudspeaker wired in to a cassette deck were numerous.

This week was spent conducting First Aid Courses for students of 4th and 5th years - the 6th year students (final year of high school) are too busy preparing for exams in a week's time. The students who attended were very attentive and asked many questions prefaced with the line: "How can you save someone who has..." followed by increasingly gruesome injuries. For many, they will never make it to hospital because they cannot afford the 15 minute bus fare (where a bus is a Toyota Hiace with 15-20 people crammed inside). To pay for hospitalisation is beyond the means of the majority. As we soon found out, the way the question is put is not simply a quaint turn of phrase - it is a harsh reality: how can you save someone who is injured when you have nothing at hand and no access to medical care? It seems First Aid is more often than not the only aid for anything from snake bites to broken bones.


So we taught them CPR for electrocution and drowning, how to stop blood flow and how to manage shock. Whether or not this will ever be of any use, I am not sure. But at least it has increased the general knowledge of the population a little.

Yesterday I received a small list from the students who were members of the Red Cross (aka those who were charged with looking after injured people). They need everything from rubbing alcohol, bandages and dressings to stretchers, water containers and gloves. There is nothing here - and clothes are not really looked upon as disposable for dressings.

And yet what is most interesting is the pride in which people take to dress up - shoes are always immaculate, houses impeccably swept, clothes neatly arranged and well looked after. To see people out and about belies the poverty of this country, but scratch the surface and it becomes immediately apparent.

Anyhow, a little bit more later on!

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

On our Way


We have now been in Rwanda for 7 days, so here is my belated start to travel blog posting. Disclaimer: I hereby declare myself immune of any accusations of tortologies, oxymorons and any other literary abominations that certain relatives may try and point out upon (proof-) reading this blog.

Our trip here took us through Bangkok (18 hour stopover) and Nairobi (6 hour stopover). Twenty-four hours after finishing our end of year exams, we touched down in Bangkok - 6 a.m. local time. Customs etc. were a breeze to get through - couldn't quite say the same for the arrival lounge. Many thai taxi drivers telling us they would take us into town for 'good price'. We took the free bus. First on the agenda was food. We put our faith in a young lady selling thai curry and rice on the side of the road. Two dishes and two bottles of spring water for 50 bhat (AUD 2.50) made for a fantastic cholera/typhoid-free curry breakfast.

Next up - sight-seeing. We 'lucked' upon a middle-aged thai man and his trusty steed - the tuk-tuk. He said he would take us to 'all tings bootiful' and 'big buddhas'. He kept his promise - for only 400 bhat he drove us around old bangkok town, waiting outside each attraction. We soon learnt there was a devious catch to this service. In between each attraction he took us to clothes store, jewelry stores and a souvenir store, each time picking up free fuel vouchers for ‘tourist delivery service’.

Bangkok driving is an experience. Median strips are non-existent, the dotted white lines might as well be non-existent. Similar story with traffic lights. Two-way roads become three and four-way. Intersections are mayhem. And yet during the entire day, we didn't see one accident. Amazing.

We left Bangkok fairly early - traffic on a friday afternoon is chaos so we were told. Slept at the airport until midnight when our flight left - Kenya Airways, direction Nairobi. Slept the whole flight, woke up to the flat landscape that is Kenya. Stop-over was equally uneventful.

Nairobi to Kigali (capital of Rwanda) was a quick flight, touching down in Rwanda at 1pm. We met a nice Swedish diplomat on the plane who gave us some tips about Kigali - what restaurants and bars to go to, where to get a hold of her if something went wrong etc. Rwandan immigration/visa acquisition is quite the task. We got our ‘temporary visa’ on the way in for USD 60. Since then we have had to revisit Kigali to renew the visa for another USD 60.

Mark O’Kane an Lara Nilsson came to pick us up from the airport. Mark is an Australian Engineer who has spent the last four years in Rwanda as the principal of a secondary technical school (ETO Gitarama). Lara is a school teacher from Brisbane and has been volunteering for the school teaching Maths, English and Sport. We are staying at Mark’s house on the school premises for our six weeks here. The school is in a small town called Butansinda, 1.5 hours by car south-west from Kigali. It’s about 20 km from the Burundian border and is 15 minutes drive from Nyanza where Sean and I will be doing our hospital rotation.

Could be a while till my next post - currently using the school’s internet (a luxury here in itself)
which is dependent on a fairly unreliable power source.
.